Ashland

Long time, no writing. If anyone is still checking my blog, they will have noticed that I have not written in quite a long time!

There's really not that much new to report. The Mono is gone and my liver is recovered from it's life-threatening levels of toxicity. I've had many many close calls and missed chances in the form of jobs, men, and everything else, and have decided to take a break from all of it for a while. I'm starting to work at the travel store in town with a group of people whom I really like, and am hoping to move into a house with my friend Heidi at the end of the month.

I guess it's been a rough season. Lots of ups and downs, and things I never expected. But, it feels like, hopefully, it's starting to normalize a bit. I feel like things are starting to balance out now, and I'm feeling better about being in Ashland, and trying to use the time well.

Thanks for reading if you are; I'll try to post more regularly!

Great Summer!

Hello Friends!

This summer has included all it should- family, friends, food, roadtrips, romance. After returning from France, I embarked on a tour de force of family visits, including one very long week in Cleveland to see my grandpa. July was a whirlwind of seeing friends and making decisions. Then in August Arnaud came to America! We had the king of all roadtrips, covering virtually all of the west coast, and seeing almost everyone I know! See pictures on flickr!


Then, Arnaud had to go back home and I had to get a job. So I did, and worked for two weeks before I decided to move back to France. But, as things change, I now find myself not in the southern French sun and in the arms of my lover, but rather under the blue skies of Ashland, with my mom. Why? Well, it seems that I didn't kiss enough people in high school and never got Mono. Until now.


So, the fall begins beautifully, with blue skies and perfect leaves, and me laying on the couch watching bad television and writing letters. :)


I hope you are all well! Stay healthy and watch out for childhood diseases (chicken pox, anyone?)! :)

Leaving Carcassonne

I don't really know what to say, other than this has been an incredible and important experience and meaningful to me on so many levels. I will miss this town so much, my friends and community, my favorite cafes and bars, the view of la cite from le pont vieux, Arnaud's shy smile.

Thank you for sharing in this adventure with me.

June

Do you know how they vote in France? They go to the mayor's office, and on the table are stacks of small flyers each one bearing the name and party of a candidate. It looks like a bar counter covered with rave and concert flyers. You walk in, choose the candidates you want, and place their flyer into a small brown envelope, which you then hand to a monsieur who puts it in a large transparent box with all the other small brown envelopes. There are a couple of voting booths if you want privacy, but seeing that you take the flyers from a very public and visible oak table in the middle of city hall, the idea of standing behind a curtain just to place the flyer into an envelope seems rather silly. But that's just me, and I'm not French.

I'm not even European, which has become increasingly evident as time goes by and I get closer to leaving France. As bilingual and Eurotrashed as I may be, I still require a visa to stay in the EU. So, the last couple of weeks have been spent in doing my French resume and sending out letters to schools and businesses all over the region. I don't want to bore you with the details of the work contract, visa, titre du sejour, CAF, MGEN, Prefecture, etc. etc. etc., but suffice it say that it is all linked in a vicious cycle with multiple steps and phases.

The other day, I walked over to ActiCity which is a youth organization that offers free guidance for kids like me seeking a job. I spoke with the woman there, who asked me when I was looking for a job and about my work experiences.

“Well,” I began, “I want to come back in the fall. In the US I was the Coordinator of a private school, and here in Carcassonne I teach English at the graduate school.”

“So, you want to come back in the fall?” She said, “Have you thought about working in the wine industry picking grapes?”

No, I hadn't thought of that.

It has been a busy few weeks. Lots of dinners out, weekend trips, friends, parties, and job searching.

After getting back from Spain, I threw myself into job searching and trying to not be too bored. Jana was in Carcassonne, so that was wonderful! We got to spend lots of time together. There were lots of parties in early June. My friend Susan who works at the pub had her last night there, so we had a huge party at the pub with music and sing-alongs and lots of entertainment. Now that the weather is nice, we've been spending time outdoors. We went up to the bar a vins in La Cite one Friday night, and it was packed with people (hooray! Something lively in Carca!), and then to the Bodega for a smoky shitty-music experience.

During the week, I see friends in the evening and Arnaud two or three times, and then on the weekends, Arnaud and I go visiting. We went to Le Cirque de Moreze (where I created an avalanche of stone and sand and fell flat on my back from a substantial height), St. Gilhem du Desert (one of the most beautiful villages of France, and a UNESCO site), fishing in Beziers, etc. etc.

I spent last weekend in Toulouse with Davy and Geraldine and their daughter Clara. We visited a few villages, an amazing prehistoric cave, and spent hours talking and catching up.

In the cave, I saw something I've never seen before and found truly miraculous. There was a trunk of a tree, completely intact but fossilized, growing out of the clay ground of the cave until the top of the rock roof, probably 20 feet above. You could see the entire root system. They think that the seed of the tree was brought in by the people making their home in the cave, and grew there. It was truly incredible.

Another highlight of my weekend there was a phone call from Shey!!!! I was SO happy to hear her voice and know that she's doing well, and taking on the enormous challenges with enthusiasm and strength. She is an amazing and inspiring person. I am very thankful for her.

I came back to Carcassonne on Sunday evening, and on Tuesday morning, Celia and I went to Pau, which is between Toulouse and the Atlantic coast. We spent the morning on the train, and arrived in Pau in time for lunch. We toured the chateau (where Henri IV was born), walked all around the city, saw the gardens and the amazing view of the Pyrenees, and just had fun goofing around. There is a university in Pau, so we went out that night for drinks and there were young people everywhere! This always excites us about visiting other towns, because there are no young people in Carcassonne. On Wednesday, we went shopping (or at least tried on a million things) and saw the rest of the city, and then took the train back that evening. Arnaud came to pick me up and we went to dinner.

And this weekend, Arnaud and I went to the Basque country. It was so beautiful, and so different from anywhere else. What struck me the most was the architecture. The houses and buildings were absolutely enormous, and had a particular style that I've never seen before. There were wooden houses painted white with brightly colored shutters and balconies, also half timbered houses, and then huge houses of stone. These were especially impressive because the style was almost Victorian, but made of stone, with balconies and porches, turrets and gables, all in gray stone blocks. They were so gorgeous. We visited St. Jean-de-Luz, a pretty little coastal town, and saw a game of la Pelote, the Basque sport that is like tennis, racket ball, and cricket all combined. We stayed in a little hotel we found right on the beach, and on Sunday we spent the day in Biarritz, which is wonderful. It was a lot of driving and a long way to go for a quick weekend, but well worth it (even Arnaud agrees, and he's the one who did all the driving!).

I got back Sunday night, ate dinner with Christelle and Celia, and then watched a movie with Aour. Today was hours spent at the cyber cafe, photocopy place, and post office looking for jobs, copying papers, and mailing resumes. Then up to La Cite to meet Celia, dinner with friends, and back home to type this up! Tomorrow we are going to the Moroccan style baths to celebrate Christelle's birthday, Thursday is la fete de musique (a musical festival that takes place on the solstice in every town in France), Saturday is a Fages family party (Arnaud's cousin is having a pre-wedding party), and Sunday Sarah Tumpane from my high school days is arriving for a couple of days!

In the meantime, I am packing my bags, clearing out drawers, and trying not to cry! I am getting excited about being home and seeing my friends and family, but it will be hard to leave, and I am trying to get as much in now as possible. I think I'm doing a pretty good job of that! I hope you are all doing well! I can't wait to see you!

England, Ireland, France, Spain

Since we last met in Germany, the travels and adventures have continued. After spending four days in fascinating Berlin, I flew to London to see my friends Andrew and Alexis. I spent days walking around the city, and evenings drinking in pubs with them. The weather was beautiful, and I took advantage of the sun by just wandering around London and spending more time in the parks than in the museums. It was SO great to see Andrew and Alexis again, and to play in the sophisticated city. We rented a car to go up to the Lake District and my boyfriend Arnaud flew up from Carcassonne to see me and come with us.

We spent four very romantic days in the Lake District, staying in bed & breakfasts, and one night at Andrew's aunt's house. Arnaud was introduced to the fine cuisines and pastimes of England (scotch he enjoyed, “cured beef” not so much). We went back to London for one night, and Arnaud and I walked around the city til 4am looking for something to eat, see, or do. But there was NOTHING going on! We were shocked! London is Europe's biggest city, and nothing was open in the night. Arnaud left the next day, and I stayed in London for three more days, hanging out with my friends and having picnics.

After a few days in England, I flew to Dublin to meet my mom. We spent two nights in Dublin, during which we tried to see and do everything, but alas, we didn't make it to the Guinness Factory! So, who's going back with me? After a couple of days in Dublin, we rented a car and drove to Cork, in the SouthWest of Ireland. We stayed in that area for three nights, seeing the Ring of Kerry, the Dingle Peninsula, and lots of castles.

The experience was pretty amazing, not to mention stressful, with my mom driving on the opposite side of the road and me navigating our way through the most ridiculous tangle of streets and cities! We were both exhausted by the end of the trip, but we had a great time!

Mom and I flew then to Paris to meet her best friend Bev. We stayed for two nights in Paris, and went to Versailles, which was pretty incredible. I also took my mom to Giverny to see Monet's garden, and that was quite lovely! After Paris, all three of us took the train to Carcassonne, and here met my auntie and uncle. We spent the weekend together (ok, I ditched them a couple of times to see Arnaud, but for the most part we were all together), visiting Carcassonne. Then on Monday, Mom, Bev, and I rented a car and went to the Perigord for a week.

We stayed in Bergerac, Brantome, and Sarlat, and saw so many villages, castles, and gorgeous things that I can't even keep it straight now! At the end of the week, I was so tired. I had planned this whole trip, and was trying to take care of every detail since meeting my mom in Dublin. While we were in France, it was great because I knew our surroundings a bit, but very tiring because there I did everything from ordering dinner to translating entire tours and documents. It was a good experience, though, and made me start thinking a lot about what I want to do in the future.

We came back to Carcassonne, Bev left to go to Rome, and mom and I hung out for a couple of days. She met Arnaud, which went very well, and she met many of my friends, which made me happy! On Monday, we left to go to Barcelona. We spent two nights in Barcelona in a beautiful apartment/hotel that I found, and my mom finally saw things that she had always dreamed of, like the Sagrada Familia. We had so much fun together, but I was freaking out about my trip to Greece. It had been bothering me for several weeks, and the last few days before leaving, I was really stressing about it. I'd just had enough of traveling for the moment, and just wanted to be home. I know it's ridiculous, and just in my head, but it really made me panic.

In the end, I knew I couldn't go. I don't know why I freaked out so badly, but I did, and I had to call the girls that I would have been traveling with and tell them that I wasn't going. I am so nervous about what they think of me, and I hope that they are not too angry. I called Arnaud, I was nervous about that too because I didn't want him to think that I am as weak and ridiculous as I am, and told him that I was going to take the train and come home. He said that he would come pick me up in Barcelona, and we could spend the weekend there.

So, I took my mom to the airport and said goodbye to her. That was hard, especially since we'd spent the last three weeks together every day and night. Then I went back into town to wait for Arnaud. I spent all afternoon at the port in the sun, and got a nice sunburn on my legs! Arnaud came around 6pm, and we got a drink and looked for a hotel. There was absolutely NOTHING available because Friday was a holiday and everything was full. So, we decided to just party and stay up all night. We ate dinner around 11 and then found a bar. Around 3am we went to a nightclub, and hung out till 5, when we left and hung out with the other kids in the street. At seven, we were desperately seeking coffee, but finding nothing open, settled in for a quick nap on a park bench. Around 9, we found coffee and (finally) the car, which we had lost underground somewhere. We started the drive back home, which took longer than usual, and getting off the autoroute to eat, we had a small car accident. We were stopped in traffic, and a huge truck ran into the door. So, we had to deal with that, and Arnaud was stressed about it cause his car is actually a work car, and he'll have to tell his boss about it. We finally got back to Narbonne where Arnaud lives and slept for about 14 hours!

This morning, I woke up around 11am, and ate the croissant that Arnaud had brought for me from the boulangerie. Then we got ready to leave, and went to have lunch in town. After, he took me to Lagrasse to visit the abbey. We drove back to Carcassonne and went to la cite, and finally I went home and saw some friends.

Now I'm back in Carcassonne trying to figure the next steps (looking for jobs, making plans, etc.).

WHEW!! I think that very briefly catches up the last month! Hope you are all well!

Germany- Big Portland?

The question I pose tonight is not just the idle rambling of a homesick traveler...non! It the fact that the things I hold most dear and delightful about Portland (bikes, beer, and a weird yet comforting atmosphere) are to be found in every corner, street, and square of both Leipzig and Berlin. If not for the different language, I would feel very much at home here.

Leaving Carcassonne was difficult, but I made it through with a week of parties, meals, and fun. I had a party on Thursday night at the pub (after a dinner party for friends where I cooked a Thai curry that was too spicy for their delicate French palates!), and then spent the weekend with friends before leaving from Narbonne on Saturday night. I took the night train to Strasbourg (I tried to sleep, but didn't much succeed), and once I got there, caught a train to Kehl, Germany, where I bought my Good Weekend ticket. This ticket (only on Saturdays on Sundays) allows travel on regional trains all through Germany for 33 euros. I had to get from Southern Germany to just south of Berlin, in one day, on only regional trains. 12 hours passed (with 11 different train changes!), and I was finally in the loving arms of my friend Jana.

I spent a couple of days with her and her family, and we saw the region, many small perfect villages, and went to the sauna. Then we went with Jana's boyfriend Sascha to Halle, where they live. We spent a few relaxing days in Halle, Weimar, and Leipzig, and then on Friday, Jana and I got a rideshare to Berlin, where we spent the weekend together! Berlin is one of the coolest cities ever (so I say that for almost every city I visit, but it really is AMAZING!!), and I've been having so much fun just hanging out here, walking every where and being amongst so much modern history! Jana left on Sunday evening, we were in Potsdam, so I've spent the last day or two just rambling around on my own, meeting people and seeing things.

Tomorrow I leave to go to London to stay with Andrew and Alexis (my old roommates and very good friends!). I am very excited to see them, and to visit London and the UK!

I hope you're all doing well! Stay in touch!

The Annual Great Easter Battle

One sunny Spring afternoon, my mom got home from her life drawing class with a big smile on her face. I assumed that she had drawn Ginger again (one of her favorite models), or maybe Drew with the massive shoulders and matching parts. But no, my mom had a better reason for smiling- she had an idea.

“Rebecca! We gotta go to the store!” She said to me. “We need Peeps! And toothpicks!”

“I hate Peeps!” I said back. My brother is a big fan of the sickly sweet marshmallow chicks (of most chicks, really!), and in college I lived with a girl who loves stale Peeps, but for me they had always been the worst part of Easter.

“I know, but we're not gonna eat them!” My mom responded. “We're gonna fight them!”

“What?” I said, laughing.

“Yeah, see, you get the peeps, and then you put toothpicks in their hands and put them in the microwave, and they fight each other!” My mom was ecstatic, her green eyes wide.

“Mom,” I tried to explain, “they're marshmallows. If you put them in the microwave, they'll just expand and melt all over the place.”

“No, they'll get bigger and move around and fight each other!” She was so excited, imagining the little creatures coming to life and wreaking havoc on each other. “Let's go to the store!”

We drove to Bi-Mart, and roamed the candy aisle. My mom couldn't decide. Should we get two colors of chicks and fight them, or should we get a team of chicks and another of bunnies, and really let the games begin? We settled on Chicks and Bunnies (yellow and pink), and a big box of toothpicks (to arm the soldiers), and then drove excitedly home to pop them in the microwave and watch the sugershed!

My mom was meticulous with the weaponry. Each little fighter got a toothpick, and some (call them the first line of defense) got two! She picked out a hardy-looking Chick and a Bunny with something to prove, and set them up, mono el mono, on a paper plate, which she then placed in the microwave and shut the door.

“How long should we leave them in for?” My mom asked me.

“Until there is a clear victor!” I answered. Or until the microwave is covered in pink and yellow goo.

Turning the dial on the microwave, my mom was as excited as a Roman spectator. The plate rotated slowly around, giving us a full view of the battle, and we were captivated by the intensity of combat. The Bunny welded his sword with the might of a, well, bunny, and the Chick began to grow to an intimidating size, his little weapon getting lost in a liquefying mass of sugary terror.

Three minutes later, when I was wiping marshmallow off the sides of the microwave and my mom was despondently removing toothpicks from other Peeps, I began to appreciate the role of these gooey snacks in my Easter basket. They weren't so bad, just as long as you didn't ingest them.

Every Easter, I get a package in the mail covered with drawings of Chicks and Bunnies, armed to the beak, and ready for war! Inside, I find my very own set of spongy soldiers, and a little note proclaiming, “The Great Easter Battle!”. Peeps have now become my favorite thing about Easter.

HAPPY EASTER!!!!

February 24- March 13

The highlights were: Tuesday night at the pub with Nico, Friday night getting philosophical with Gary, Saturday at the cafe with the old men, Sunday at the chateau with the girls, Tuesday lunch with Emily, Wednesday hot chocolate writing letters with myself, Friday playing in Carcassonne with Elyse, Saturday with Elyse in Toulouse, Saturday night Jerome's birthday party at La Makhila, Sunday night dinner with the girls, and Monday night Susan's birthday party at the pub.

Tuesday night I went out with the assistants, but I ended spending the whole evening drinking and playing darts with Jerome, Nico, Bob, and Benjamin. We had a great night!

Friday night, I entered into a ridiculously profound philosophical conversation with my friend Gary. It made me happy, and feel like I haven't lost my edge!

Saturday, I did my usual routine of the market, and then met David, David, Pierre, Bob, and Daniel at La Saillon for a huge plate of meat (including chicken hearts!) and plenty of wine. We continued with coffee, and I found myself with David and David, just talking until 6 in the evening.

Sunday, we went to free castle day up in La Cite, followed by lunch at a restaurant, and later that evening a German movie at the cinema.

Tuesday afternoon after “work”, I met Emily at one of my favorite little lunch places. I've only been there twice, cause I don't eat out often in Carca (WAY too expensive!), but I really like it. It's owned by a French-Lebanese woman, and it's this tiny little hole in the wall covered with art work. Apparently, it's an artists collective, although I'm not exactly sure how that works. In any case, she makes one set dish every day, with Moroccan mint tea, and you come in and she just serves you what she has. The meals are always very fresh, healthy, and balanced. Tuesday for example was chicken with herbs, green beans, warm vegetable salsa, spiced carrots, green salad, bread, and tea. It's just a fun place to go, cause it's almost like a boarding hall- you go in and eat, totally relaxed and no fuss! I like places like that.

Wednesday afternoon I went to La Terrade for the best hot chocolate and a great view of Place Carnot to write letters and read.

On Thursday my very good friend Elyse Tishkoff came to town! We went out Thursday night for a drink with Jerome, Nico, Bob, and David. Then on Friday, we did Carcassonne! We had croissants and coffee in Place Carnot, went up to La Cite and walked around, had lunch at Intheieure 13, walked along the Canal du Midi, met girls for afternoon tea, had a picnic dinner of cheese and bread, then went out to the pub with a bunch of people for drinks. I think we managed to get almost everything in in one day!

On Saturday, we went to the market (of course) and had coffee. Then we took the train to Toulouse, where it was beautiful and everyone was out! I had decided definitively a couple weeks ago that I will be returning to the US and staying there next year, but being in Toulouse with all the young people and the sun out and everyone happy made me really want to stay here! I am so torn!

Saturday night was Jerome's birthday party at La Makhila, this funny Basque bar. So I went to that with Celia, Sarah, Charlotte, and Malick. We danced and sang (and I lost my voice!), and had a merry time!

Sunday evening we all had dinner together (Charlotte, Cristelle, Celia, Julie, Katie, Elena, Emily).

Finally, Monday evening we celebrated Susan's birthday at the pub with wine and about six different cakes! The whole crew was there, basically the core of the friends I've made here. It was really nice to hang out with everyone and just enjoy each other's company!

All right, that about catches us up! I know it sounds like I don't do anything here but go out and play with friends, and that's about right. I haven't been working lately because my students are on a two week internship. I have been doing lots of writing, however, and trip planning!

Hope you are all well! Bisous!

Amalfi on my mind

The rugged coastline presses in and out of the ocean like an amorous wave. Shell-colored buildings are scattered here and there. Cliffs and rock faces form natural castles and roads give the hills terrace-like structure. There are groves of lemon trees and green things climbing vertically up from the sea, sheltered from the wind with gauze and tarpaulin, exposed to the warm salty air.

Amalfi itself is a charming town with a beautiful brightly painted duomo rising above the town square. I pause here, a few moments on a port, looking around, breathing. Then I wander about the tiny town, losing myself in its streets.

People smile saying hello, and I wonder if being surrounded with beauty makes people more peaceful and kind? There are stairs that lead in all directions, up the mountain sides, and tunnels that connect one shop to another. Roof-top terraces and glass enclosed living rooms hang out over the water.

The whole scene looks organic, like the houses and churches formed at the same time as the jagged cliffs, taking on the colors of the sky and the sea. It is peaceful. I smile.

I'VE NEVER EVEN BEEN TO MT. VESUVIUS!

But I HAVE been to Pompei! It was so much bigger than I imagined. Denser, more modern, better preserved. Entire houses with still-vivid frescoes and green gardens. Little shops, that just like today, sold food, jewelery, even sex. Walking through and among so much history in Rome, Pompei, even in Carcassonne, I find comfort and humor and maybe a common thread linking the past and the present. The fact that it has always been the same basic things that sustain and entertain us makes me feel connected with the long spectrum of time. Whether we were born in 1979 or in 79 ad, we still enjoy a good meal, good theater, and good lovin! We still deal with violence, and even create it for sport and leisure. Children, given open space and free time, will still play and laugh about the same things. I find it comforting that no matter how much time passes, we are still basically the same people seeking the same things.

When in Rome...

I had a hard time getting my mind around the history and significance of Rome. It was so much bigger and more monumental than I had imagined, and I feel incapable of truly grasping the importance and depth of it all. I'm American, so the idea of living in and around so much history is a bit unusual for me. But, I live in France, so I have learned to meet a certain amount of history in my everyday life. I live in a city built in the 14^th century, and I work next to a castle that Charlemagne frequented. This is an amount of history that I can comprehend. But anything over 800 years old (that's not a forest or a rock) is way too old for me to relate to. It's so old and therefore significant that I have no concept of its placement. It is no longer in a human scale, even though it's human history.

Rome was for me a whirlwind of colors and smells. It was energetic but strangely relaxing. I think this might be because I had to go on auto-pilot for certain portions of the day. Everything I saw was so incredible, that often I reached a limit of sensory retention, and had to just kind of float through the city, looking at everything the way you do when you go to the Louvre. It is so overwhelming. I found myself also wondering if I was appreciating Rome enough, or in the way I should be. Maybe I was supposed to be getting more out of every experience there, but I think that I did what I was able to do in five days. It is definitely a place that you could go back to over and over and always be intrigued. I hope to return there many times.

On the airplane to Rome, Emily was seated next to two Americans who then joined us on our trek to the hostel, and with whom we spent our first day in Rome. When we arrived at our hostel, Gulliver's House, the guy working there (“I am Chozhan from India”), offered us juice and set about making us comfortable. Chozhan turned out to be an extremely friendly guy, who wanted to make everyone happy, and who REALLY liked Emily and me. Our second day there was Emily's birthday, and Chozhan threw her a little party!

So our first day we spent “Rome-ing around” (HAHAHAHA) with Scott and Andrew, the guys we met on the plane. Emily and I both felt like it was some weird first double blind-date. Scott is a Seattle-based pharmacist, and Andrew (currently a Hilton Hotel night club manager) assured me that he will soon be taking an early retirement off the fortune he is sure to accumulate through an entrepreneurial nut company! “Dees Nuts” - keep a look out! :)

We hit up the Colosseum, the Forum, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, plus just walking around. That night, Emily and I cooked dinner at the hostel.

The next day was Valentine's Day and Emily's birthday. We didn't know it, but soon found that all the monuments were doing a two-for-one deal. With our French residency cards we got E.U. Price reductions, and then with the Valentine's Day deal, Emily and I got to see the Colosseum and Palatine Hill (LC represent...!) for like 3 Euros. Palatine Hill is the part of ancient Rome where the wealthy and the rulers had their villas. It was incredible to walk around the ruins of these pleasure palaces and see the modernity and opulence of the rich Romans. After Palatine Hill, we entered the Colosseum. It's huge. I don't really know what else to say.

After, we wandered over to the Trastevere, the old Jewish neighborhood for lunch. This part of town is way less touristy and full of students and young people. Then we checked out the Campodiglio (a square designed by Michaelangelo). Finally, we headed home for Emily's birthday party at the hostel. Then we all went out to dinner together.

We had about three more days in Rome, seeing all the sites, eating all the food, and hanging out with all the people. It was wonderful!

The Grand Tour

NOTE: Read this for the quick synopsis. I will be adding longer essays on Rome, Naples and Pompei in a few days!

Winter vacation was a wonderful two week voyage in Spain and Italy! I went with my friend Emily to Girona, Spain and then Rome, Naples, and Salerno. Along our way, we visited the Dali Museum in Figures, the ruins of Pompei, and the Amalfi Coast.

Figueres, Spain: The Dali Museum

This museum, in the old theater, was designed and renovated by Dali himself to be a personal museum. The building itself is a piece of surrealistic artwork. It is an immense bright pink structure with huge eggs on the roofs, and an Epcot-style dome. Inside, the galleries are full of paintings and drawings, as well as enormous installations and 3D representations of 2-dimensional works. For anyone who is a Dali fan, this is a definite must-see!

Girona, Spain

We went to Girona because our Ryanair flight left from there, but we discovered a charming university town with beautiful winding streets, gardens, tons of history, and very warm people. We spent two nights there at the beginning of our trip, walking around the old town and the old Jewish quarter, and seeing the sites. We met kind people, including an old priest who showed us back behind the altar of the church, and told us the story of the sculptures. It's a lovely town that we really enjoyed. From Girona, we flew to Rome.

Rome, Italy

Please see “When in Rome”

Naples, Italy (includes Pompei)

Please see “Naples”

Salerno, Italy (includes Amalfi)

A beautiful little resort town on the Amalfi Coast. It has a long promenade on the waterfront where everyone takes an evening walk. The highlight of these two days was taking the bus along the Amalfi Coast from Salerno to Amalfi. It was quite possibly one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen.

Girona, Spain

For one more night on the return.

Carcassonne, France

After a wonderful vacation, it was nice to be back in Carcassonne and see friends!

Using My Friends as Lesson Plans

So, Nick, Devon, Celeste and Scott, Ariel and Charlie, James, Flavia, Shey, Austin, Massene, Carine and Jeremy, you have all become a part of my lesson plans, and with great success!

I have pictures of you in either pairs or threesomes, and for a lesson on Romance and Relationships, I gave pairs of students a picture, and asked them to make up a story about the people in the picture. They gave you each new names, new jobs, and new relationships to each other. Then I told them your real names, personalities, and relationships, and we were all laughing. So, for your entertainment (and everyone else's), here are your parallel universe lives:

1. A few of the pictures inspired overly-realistic stories. The picture of Shey and Austin at a bar on Mardi Gras, for example. My student wasn't too creative on this one, he simply described the situation- two friends at a bar. She looks like she's been drinking, and she is trying to tell her friend a story, but he is really confused. Sounds about right to me! Shey's stories usually are confusing!

2. A picture of James and Flavia (also at Mardi Gras) yielded two stories. One was that they were really good friends who were secretly attracted to each other but didn't want to risk or ruin the friendship by trying a relationship. So they wait a really long time and are eventually together and are in love and have lots of babies. The other story is a slight variation. This one says that the guy is bold and the girl is shy. He is very interested in her, and she is interested too, but she doesn't know it yet. Of course, they will both figure it out, and will one day be married and have a great love story. But for now they are just friends. Maybe my students know something I don't?

3. Next we have Scott and Celeste, who, according to my students, met at their college's Wet T-Shirt Contest, and have been very happily dating ever since. The picture is from their first date, and they were so happy together!

4. The picture of Devon and Nick at the World Cup down at Pio Place is funny. She is looking right at the camera smiling, and he is looking off into the distance. The story here is that He is a pizza delivery boy, and she is a nurse named Monica Lewinsky. One day, he has an accident on his motorbike, and goes to the hospital, where he must spend much time recovering. Monica nurses him back to health, and one night, he gets up to use the bathroom, and, totally naked, falls in the bathroom. Nurse Monica comes running to his rescue, where he declares his love for her and asks her to marry him. According to Benoit, my student, “they make the love there”. I asked, “in the bathroom?”, and he responded, “yes, and all over the place”. They are together for their whole lives and have three children and are very happy together.

5. The picture of Carine, Massene, and Jeremy created an interesting scenario. My students decided that Massene (named James), and Jeremy (Billy) were a couple who wanted to have a baby and asked Carine (Katherine) to carry it for them. Billy was to be the father because James was unable to have children- I'm telling you Massene, sterility has many causes...!

6. And finally, a picture of Ariel and Charlie gave us two stories. One, sickeningly obvious- “they are a loving couple, and very respectful. She is shy, and so is he but less so. Perhaps they will be married”. And the other, more imaginative: She is a masseuse named Hilary who works at a beauty institute and he is a stressed out IT guy named Steve. He goes to get a massage at the institute every Saturday at 4pm. Why? Because he knows that's when Hillary will be working. It takes him six months of weekly massages to get up the courage to ask her out. This is a picture from their first date, and they are both very happy and will fall in love.

So, my dear friends, thank you for letting me use you as characters in your very own romance novels!

January 22-28

Monday- Hours at the cyber cafe with Emily to plan our February vacation to Spain and Italy. We are going to spend three days on the Costa Brava in Spain, and then fly to Italy and spend time in Rome, Naples and around, the Amalfi coast, and maybe a city called Matera with prehistoric cave homes dug into the mountain sides!

Tuesday- Dinner and travel planning session with Katie and Emily. We are planning on rejoining each other in mid-may in Rome, and then traveling to Greece, followed by Istanbul. After that, plans are somewhat unclear, but may include such places as Budapest, Vienna, Prague, St. Petersburg, Stockholm, and Copenhagen. There are many factors to consider (like money and time!), so I'll keep you updated as I know!

Wednesday- Pygmalion! Pygmalion is the original of My Fair Lady. The play was wonderful, with beautiful sets and fabulous costumes. There was no music, but it was so enjoyable! The funny thing about the play is that the accent that Eliza has before she goes to Prof. Higgins is usually a strong cockney accent. Then she learns to be a lady and speak in a more refined accent. Since the play was in French, she needed to have a strong French accent that would be equivalent. So, of course, she has this incredibly strong accent from the South- the exact accent that everyone here in the Midi has, and the one that I am gaining. It was funny to me to hear this accent being used as the 'uneducated, unrefined' accent, but I wonder if my fellow theater-goers were at all offended? They didn't seem to be.

Thursday- House warming at Elena's, then out at the pub and dancing at cafe de nuit until 4:30am with Julien, Susan, Elena, Nico, Jerome, etc.

Friday- On Friday night I had dinner at Michaela's. She made a traditional German dish that was delicious but super heavy. Then I met up with Nico and his friends at the pub, but was so tired from the night before, that I didn't stay out too late. Besides, I wanted to be in good shape for Saturday night!

Saturday- La soiree Petasse. The theme of Saturday's joint birthday and going away parties, and definitely not my idea. A huge party at my friend Charlotte's apartment for her birthday, my own, and Julien's going-away. The men were dressed also as trashy women, and really seemed to enjoy it. We filled the apartment, danced like crazy, and had a merry time. We exchanged gifts, I got from everyone a really cute Carcassonne t-shirt. Then we went out to cafe de nuit, that same late-night club, until they closed around 4:30am, and then back to Charlotte's. It was an interesting night, complete with a proposition to accompany a monsieur on his weekend trip to Portugal, and various conversations with the guys about how to remove makeup.

Sunday- RECOVERY and cleaning the apartment after the party!

Funny Stories

A couple of funny stories for you!

1. I like this story. I was teaching the other day, and we were doing clothing and fashion. It was already into a questionable arena when I had to explain the difference between boxers and briefs, and also when a student said something about men wearing panties. Later on, we were playing a game “I'm going to a wedding, and I'm going to wear ___________” with an adjective and a noun. There were 9 women in class and one very shy man, Thomas, who is a friend of mine. So, all the girls went around and said, “I'm going to a wedding and I'm going to wear a green skirt, or a purple scarf, or a big hat”. And then it gets to Thomas, and he says, “I'm going to a wedding, and I'm going to wear kangaroo briefs”. And I said, 'what are kangaroo briefs?'. And my students all started saying, 'you know, kangaroo briefs, for men.' And I asked if that was the brand of the briefs. They said no. And then I asked why there were called that. And one of the girls said, “because they have a little pouch”, and then another girl looked at Thomas, and back at me and said “or a big pouch”, and poor Thomas turned about the color of ketchup. I think I learned my lesson about teaching students about underwear!

2. Story number two also comes from a student. We were talking about schools, and I asked them to share a strong memory from their school days. There were a lot of stories about broken wrists and cracked-open heads and mean games. And then one girl told the story of her classroom pet, a little bunny. During the summer, no one in the class could take the bunny, so the teacher gave it to a school neighbor to take care of it during the summer. This older gentlemen, according to my student, 'he kill the bunny and he eat it!'. I thought I was never going to stop laughing. It seems like the most 'French' story I could ever hear!

I hope you're doing well and enjoying your own funny surroundings!

Rebecca's Top-Five List of the Most Dangerous Things To Do in Carcassonne

5. Go to the gym (Rugbymen)

4. Cross the street without looking (crazy drivers)

3. Go to la cité on a sunny Sunday (tourists)

2. Go to the Irish pub on a Saturday night (military)

And the Number One Most Dangerous thing to do in Carcassonne...

1. Walk down the street with your eyes closed (dog poop)

Stay safe!! :)

Why is Dating so Confusing in France?

Maybe because dating doesn't exist. I know this, I have lots of friends with whom I discuss the differences between French relationships and American relationships, I have seen the differences and am fully aware of them, but I have never before been single in France. Single in France. It sounds like a fabulous opportunity, doesn't it? Like all my girl friends back home should be jealous of my situation. The reality, though, is a far cry from the romantic images the idea conjures. Why? See below.

First of all, the relations between men and women are very different. Men and women are not typically friends. As you all know, I have lots of male friends, and that's really important to me. But here, usually, men and women only go out together if they're lovers. This means that anytime I meet a guy and think that he would be a great friend, I can never see him again. Because if I ask if he wants to do something sometime, he of course thinks I am after him, and if he wants to see me again, I must assume that he wants to be my boyfriend. This makes things very confusing for Rebecca, who just wants guy friends, but can't seem to manage it.

It's not that French men aren't attractive and nice and interesting people, but the act of going out several times to get to know someone and then deciding if there could maybe be more than that doesn't really happen here. If someone finds you attractive, and asks you to go out or do something and you agree, that means you are his girlfriend. So, when I was given three different phone numbers the other evening, I really didn't feel inclined to dial any of them.

Here's another thing- they work in pairs, sometimes even teams. This has happened to me twice recently. There will be two good friends, one who actually talks to me and maybe who I think is interesting, and the other who kind of observes. But then it's the observer who I find out later is the one who is interested in me. So, now I clearly can't go out with the first friend (because then the observer will be upset), and I can't go out with the observer (cause who wants to do that?), so we all just say goodbye and the team moves on the next player.

Still, in terms of cultural lessons, I am learning a great deal! :)

New Year, New Journal!

Hi! Welcome to my new journal! Thanks for making the change, and sorry if it's confusing!

I realize it's been over a month, and no, I haven't forgotten about my journal project, just been a bit preoccupied. So, a quick fill in since I last wrote...I went home to the states for the winter break and saw friends and family. It was really wonderful to be home for a couple of days, and though it short and pretty exhausting, I'm glad I got to go home and spend some time in beautiful Oregon with the people I love! When I got back to France, I had a busy work week (also jetlagged and with some sort of stomach bug), and eventually got myself settled back into normalcy. My first weekend back was my birthday, so we went out. And then I had a writing workshop all day on Saturday, which didn't exactly work out as planned, but was still a good day of writing. The next week, I got caught up with friends. One of my friends had a sad family thing happen, so I spent a lot of time talking with her. I went to a writing workshop in French, which was really fun, but difficult. I went to a dinner party, and then went out to the pub (see post: dating in France), worked the next day, and then on Friday afternoon, I went with Michaela to our friend Sarah's parent's house in Albi for the weekend.

Albi is a lovely city with a river flowing through it. Its buildings are red brick and colombage (timber house- much like in Germany), and is known for its famous artist Toulouse-Lautrec. The cathedrale is immense, fortress-like on the outside, and incredibly detailed on the inside, with every surface painted in really very modern motifs. The neighboring museum holds works of Toulouse-Lautrec, from his earliest drawings all the way through his career, thus tracing the evolution of his style, themes, and even specific pieces. It's a wonderful museum for its simplicity and direct handling of the art (there's no abstract explanation or theorized installations, it's more of a gallery, just showing the work), and even though I've been there before, I could spend a lot more time there than I did on this visit.

The weekend was really nice. Sarah's parents are great. They've been traveling all over the world for decades, and are selling their house in April to start traveling again. They are full of stories and questions, and made us very at home with delicious meals and photo albums. It was fun to spend time with a French family, as I haven't done that for quite awhile. Here, I'm back into almost college mode, where you forget that other generations and lifestyles exist other than that of the young adult. Of course, I have lots of friends here of my parent's age, but they are all single adults, not families. And I don't think I've talked to a kid since August, when I left PFS. That's odd.

It's back to work tomorrow, with a dinner on Monday and on Tuesday, a play on Wednesday (Pygmalion- My Fair Lady), and then a huge party that we're throwing on Saturday night.

I'm going to try to be much better about posting regularly, for anyone who actually reads this thing regularly (which I think really is only a few relatives).

Hello!

December 16, 2006
Archive


Shey est bien arrivee!! She got here Sunday evening around 7:30pm, and we spent the whole evening just talking and talking and talking. Unfortunately this week I had to work everyday except Friday, so Shey was on her own, let loose in Carca! All I can say is watch out boys! On Monday after work, we went to writing group together. It was just women this time, and more of us youngsters than usual, and it was really relaxed and fruitful. It also launched a whole theme to the week of discussing writing, and our various styles. I had a dinner party on Tuesday with 6 guests, and that was fun. Then on Wednesday, Shey and Jana and I went on a long walk in the Corbieres. The path we took had sculptures and installations every few hundred meters, and it was a beautiful view over the valley. On Thursday, Shey and I wandered around la cite, had tea and cake at my favorite salon du the, cooked dinner, and just hung out. On Friday, we hung out in Carca, went to la cite at night with Jana, cooked dinner, then went out to the pub, had all our drinks paid for by parachuters, I met a French band- three great French guys who were hilarious!-, and then we went out dancing until 3:30. Saturday we went to the market and then I met Pierre, Bob, David, and David (my posse of middle age men) for wine at the cafe, and Shey met up with us later. The rest of Saturday was spent walking around, and then to Michaela's for vin chaud and cookies. We went to bed early, woke up on Sunday, went for a short walk around town, and then to the airport. It was SUCH a great week with Shey! We had long long talks, great meals, fun little adventures, and she really got to fit into my life here for a week, experience the town, meet my friends, and just relax. She is moving to Mali for three years, and though I'll see her again briefly before she goes, we were both so thankful to have a week just to ourselves with nothing to do really but spend time with each other. I don't recall having so much free uninterrupted time with my best friend since we were kids.

This week has been very calm. Lot's of Christmas shopping and parties. Three dinner parties, two apero's, writing group, etc. I've been packing and getting ready for my trip! I even celebrated Chanukah! We made latkes and played dreidel (spelling?) and then went out to five in the morning. Feeling pretty good today...Saturday- market (as usual), coffee after with friends, then lunch with friends, cafe, and then we went on the giant ferris wheel with amazing views of la cite! It was beautiful. Tonight is another dinner party, tomorrow will be a degustation (wine tasting) and baking cookies for my students. Work on Monday and Tuesday, and then I'll be flying home on Wednesday!

When I have more time, I will write about Christmas time here in Carcassonne!

I hope you're all doing well, and I can't wait to see you! See you soon!

Sorry I've not posted for so long!

December 11, 2006
Archive


So, Friday after Thanksgiving was spent recovering, and then going to the gym, and then to a party at Julien's place dancing to Breton music, and leaving everyone at midnight at the pub because I was exhausted. Then on Saturday, Michaela and her brother, Tomas, and I took their rented car to Minerve, which is “One of the most Beautiful Villages of France” (an official designation). It's true. It's a tiny little village in the most incredible landscape, high up on a narrow hill above a deep gorge that cut through the whole valley creating natural bridges. It's stunning. Then we drove up to several little villages, had a picnic, and then back down to do a wine tasting in a village, where the charming old man showed us the cave and the big tanks, and thought I was sweet enough to be given an extra bottle with my purchases. I'll have to send him a card! That night, Michaela and Tomas cooked a wonderful dinner for Jana and I.


On Sunday, Michaela, Tomas, Emily, and I took the car and explored two Cathar chateaux, Queribus and Peyrepertuse. Queribus is high above the town of Cucugnan. As we ascended the mountain, the fog began to encircle us, and by the time we reached the Chateau, it was completely surrounded by the thick gray stuff. We climbed up to the castle, and explored it. The views would have been stunning, but all we could see was gray. We imagined that the chateau was the last to fall during the crusades because of its ability to hide in the fog. No one would ever know it was there. It was a fascinating building, with holes in the walls for archers, huge common areas, and a dungeon that went I don't know how many meters deep into the earth. That was exciting! With our entrance tickets, we also got to see a little film in the village. We were the only ones in the small theater, and we really didn't know what to expect. As the red velvet curtain opened, it revealed a scale model of the town sitting on a stage, with the screen behind it. The film, which was projected on the screen, as well as on the side walls, was really many still cartoons linked together with the story of how the priest of the local church got his sinning townsfolk to come to church. Does everyone remember The Wizard of Oz (and I hope that some of you watched it over Thanksgiving!)? You know how the wizard appears to be a large green head? Well, this cinematic experience included one of those. On the side wall, a panel would periodically open unveiling a floating green head that was similarly reminiscent of the talking mirror in Snow White (apparently, this movie was a walk down my childhood memory lane).


After the movie, we drove on to Peyrepertuse, another chateau placed precariously on the top of a very high sharp mountain. We climbed up there (my legs hurt on Monday!), walked around the chateau, which was huge, had a picnic at the very top, and then came down just as it began to rain a bit. Unfortunately, there was no film...BUT we drove through a spectacular gorge. This gorge, Les gorges du Verdouble, was enormous with hugely high and deep white and gray rocks, and a road that was built into the side of the rock that literally just hugged the edges sweeping down into the distant base of the gorge. It was stunning, and Kate if you're reading this, the rocks looked like those ones where we camped in Montana, remember? We drove the long way back through hills and past vineyards turning orange and red. And back home tired but happy.


On Monday, I worked, went to the gym, saw a movie with Jana (Lady Chatterly...what a crock of shit), got hot chocolate at the pub, and then talked to my mom and went to bed. On Tuesday, I went to the doctor's to complete my file for my residency here in France. I love going to the doctor in France. The first thing they tell you to do is get naked. And then they take an x-ray (which they gave me! Talk about a good room decoration!) and leave the room, leaving me standing naked without any idea of what to do next. Finally, I can get dressed again, and then the doctor comes in, asks me what state I'm from and we talk about Oregon and Russel Banks for about 10 minutes. Then I'm sent, x-ray in hand, to another office, where I wait for about 45 minutes to see a doctor who checks my breathing, my height, my vision, and takes my word on things like “do you have all your vaccinations?” and “are you in good health?”. Yes and Yes, I answer, he stamps and signs a paper, shakes my hand, and I leave.


On Wednesday, I went and got my Carte de Sejour (my French identity card), and then had coffee with Pierre and Bob, followed by gift shopping with Jana and Tomas, and then I made chocolate chip cookies. After the cookies were all baked, Jana and I went to the pool, where I inadvertently made some friends by being the only person in the pool who was actually swimming and not just floating around. An old Chinese man literally grabbed my arm and said in heavily accented French that I was a good swimmer and he was impressed by the butterfly. It was flattering in a unsettling sort of way. After the pool, we rushed back to get into costumes for Celia's birthday party. I of course don't have anything here for a costume, so I evaluated what I do have, and decided to go as a tourist. Suitcase, maps, guide books, camera, backpack, and water bottle, I was set. We had many other 'best costume' entries, including a Christmas Tree, a street lady, and a slick Spanish disco man.


Thursday, I went to work all day for the last session of the continuing education, where we talked about cooking and then had a huge potluck.


On Friday, Michaela, Tomas, and I went to Toulouse. It's a lovely city with a lot of young people and the famous pink buildings. We were planning on doing some Christmas shopping, but mostly just walked around and looked at things. We came home, I went to the gym and then to the pool with Jana, and then we had dinner at Julie's. Dinner went very late, all of us acting as interpretors for each other because we didn't have one common language between us. I either had to translate French to English for Tomas, or Michaela had to translate French to German for him, or Jana had to translate German to French for Julie and I. We decided that Esperanto might not be such a bad idea.


Saturday was Michaela's birthday. I went to the market, had coffee with friends, and then went shopping for food and gifts. We came home, made a cake for Michi, ate dinner, and then went to her party. The party was great with lots of friends dropping by, and staying until about 1:30. At 2:00am, Jana and I left because I was supposed to be at another party. We took Tomas with us because he was drunk and obnoxious and Michaela was about to kill him, but then we had him on our hands. We met my friend Susan at the pub, and went to the “party” together. At 2 am, Susan promised that the party would still be going strong, but we walked into a house full of smoke and not much else except six other people, including the host and his friend without their shirts on. It was a really weird scene, and I wanted to leave right away because I felt uncomfortable there, but Jana and Tomas, the good Germans they are, each had a beer in hand, and I knew I was stuck for at least the duration of the bottle. Thankfully, my friend Saffarin was there, and we actually had a really philosophical and interesting conversation. He owns a bar in town, and in the course of our talk, he offered to give me a work contract there so that I can stay in France. I don't think that I want to stay in Carcassonne and work at a bar, but the offer was really nice, and definitely appreciated.


Sunday was spent cleaning the apartment, getting my classes ready for next week, and trying to figure out how Shey missed her flight to Carcassonne and how she's going to get here alternatively. The plan is for her to fly instead to Perpignan and take the train to Carcassonne, but neither her nor I know what time these things will occur, so I've just been waiting around the apartment for her call. The poor thing, I hope she doesn't have any more complications on her way here. Of course, knowing her, she'll probably meet some rich French man on the train who will offer her his summer home in Mali to live in while she's there, and access to his fortune and private collection of Olympic-quality ski and soccer equipment. So, I'm looking forward to her arrival and to the story!

A busy week

November 24, 2006
Archive


It's been a busy couple of weeks, so I'll just go with highlights, which are: Writing Workshop, Limoux, and Thanksgiving.


I went to a writing workshop on Saturday at a lovely estate in a village called Vaudereuille, outside of Revel. The estate is called La Grange aux Belles, and consists of a bed and breakfast, gites (furnished rent-able apartments for big groups), a farm, a beautiful old manor house, and a meeting and reception area. There were objects everywhere- old cabinets, bird cages, paintings and maps, vases, dolls, instruments. It was so cozy and interesting, and we sat around a large oak table by a huge fire and drank tea and ate cake and wrote and talked and wrote. We had lunch at a local restaurant, came back to more writing, and then Jana and I got a tour of the place from the owner. We bought a few gifts in her boutique, and drove back to Carcassonne, where we made hot chocolate and talked for several hours. I didn't find much inspiration in the workshop itself, I think because there were only four of us and the leader, and there wasn't too much energy around the table, and because I was distracted and tired. But just getting away into the country, and being in this amazing estate, and just writing was so good. I love writing, and I'm happy that I've been able to work on it, share it, and have time to really get into it. It's been such a gift to be able to involve myself in writing, and to have a found a group of people that share this interest and are all really supportive of each other's creativity and talents. I feel like there are things that I'm doing here that are so essential for me- speaking French, traveling, eating cheese, writing, teaching, and learning. Learning about people, about places, about myself. I do feel lost here sometimes, like I'm not really sure why I'm here or what I'm doing, but I think that I don't have to know the reasons, because I know it's the right thing for me to be here, even if I don't know why.


On the following Monday, I took a ride to Limoux, a small town south of here. Jana had a meeting there, so I tagged along for ride. I literally got out of the car, and walked ten minutes to the bridge going into Old Town, when I thought to myself “is there a mental hospital or something here?”. Turns out there is. The town is full of people with various problems, but this translated into 'the town is full of great stories', like the woman who stopped me in the doorway of the church and told me that a man at the cafe gave her a napkin, a real cloth napkin, like she was a princess, and she also told me that I need to get married, as I'm beautiful and marriage is a sacrament of the church. I assured her that one day I would get married, and left her smiling in the door way with her milky eyes and rough brown hands. Limoux was nice, I had many admirers there in the form of people like this woman and the old men playing boules by the river. After Limoux, Jana and I went to a village nearby called Alet-Les-Bains. This village has natural springs where you can fill bottles, wash clothes, and even take a little stroll in the pool. We brought empty water bottles along with us on purpose to fill them there with the fresh mineral water, and we waded in the pool, which was so relaxing and energizing. After that we took a walk through the village, and couldn't even find a cafe it was so small and empty!


The next big thing to mention is Thanksgiving. It began at 8:30pm Thursday and lasted until 5:00am Friday. We had a huge meal (turkey, four kinds of stuffing, mashed potatoes, mac and cheese, and, thanks to me The Green Stuff, which was a huge hit!, and six different desserts), drinks, and then we went to the pub, where my friend Esmerelda and I sang at the microphone along with the band, until it closed and then made our way to the Cafe de Nuit (the only place open late) where I danced and danced until about 4:30. Finally got home at 5 and spent all day until now in bed. It was so much fun to celebrate the holiday with friends here in Carcassonne. Everyone was so happy to be there and be doing this, and though there were a few nostalgic stories from my friends, everyone was in good spirits!

Other than those big things, there have been dinner parties, housewarming parties, birthday parties, coffee dates with friends, trips to the gym, and work, which I love! I think I may have found something that I could do as a career, or at least as an in-between job. I really love teaching adults English. It's the type of teaching that I have always dreamed about- sharing something that I'm passionate about (language) with people that I find interesting and enthusiastic (adults). Instead of feeling drained of all energy after work as I do with children, I feel happy and energetic and confident. Of course, it helps that at most I only work 6 hours a day!

Ok, enough for now. I have to wait to download more pictures onto flickr (I already surpassed my monthly limit). I made all the pictures public, so now you should ALL be able to see them! Take care and Happy Thanksgiving!

Enough with the baby-slapping!

November 14, 2006
Archive


Ok, I'm sorry, but I have to get something off my chest. I have seen WAY too many moms hitting their children lately. And I'm talking really smacking their kids, their SMALL kids, for the tiniest little things. Like the kid is in a shop and touches something, and the mom says 'don't touch that', and pulls the child's arm really hard. And then the kid tries to touch it again, or whines just a little bit (like quietly says 'owww'), and then the mom just goes nuts, pulling the kid, and slapping him and yelling. No one in the store had even noticed that this child was being disruptive (cause he wasn't), until the mom hits him and yells, and this upsets the child of course. I don't know what to do in these situations, cause a.) it's not my child, b.) it's not my culture, and c.) it's not gonna change anything except make the mom more angry. But I feel horrible seeing this stuff happen constantly, everywhere, and some true violence over NOTHING at all. It's just so unnecessary and disproportional. I mean, violence is never ok, but it's not like the kid went up to the sales person and kicked her in the shins and told her to f-off, or anything like that. It's just crazy. Ok, that's all for now, thanks for listening.

In other news, here's what the gym is like: I decided that I would go and enroll in the gym down the street, like I'd been meaning to do for the last month. It's an old crummy gym, but so close to my apartment that I won't be able to make excuses for avoiding it. Even if this gym is crap, at least it's something. It's located above a grocery store, with a street level door leading to a very steep and long flight of stairs. Above the door is a sign “New Gym” and an arrow pointing directly up the stairs. I climbed the stairs and began to smile as I heard the ridiculously loud reverberations of the FlashDance theme song coming from the gym. I had visited a few weeks before, just to look at it and get some information, and had a met an older woman who was extremely kind and helpful. This was the owner's mother, who looked after the place occasionally. On a second visit, I found no one there who could actually help me with the inscription, so I went back later with the required papers and money, to finally, hopefully, sign up and get started. Each time I had visited, the gym had been empty. But this actually pleased me as it meant I could probably use the equipment whenever and however I wanted, without the pressure or timetables of other members. Still, the age and quality of equipment is a disappointment.
I met with Sylvie, the owner, to give her paperwork and money. Sylvie and her husband owned the gym, and were both former champion body-builders. The gym is covered with posters and pictures of them at the height of their muscled careers. I sat down opposite Sylvie, and commented on one of the posters. “Is that you? Very impressive!” I said. “Yes, that's me, but it's nothing” Sylvie had modestly replied. “Yes, it's very good.” I insisted, looking at Sylvie's muscled thighs stick through a bikini. “Oh, it was for a competition," she told me. "But that was a long time ago.”
I, used to the procedures and pressures of gyms in the U.S., was surprised by the informality of the whole thing. There were no releases to sign, or tours and introductions to the equipment made. There was no card or check-in procedure, no questions about my experience or background, no rules stated or regulations covered. Just a name and address given, some cash and a photo, and I was hand-written into the ledger book that acted as a membership database and told she could start whenever. I asked if I had to present myself to someone when I came, so that they knew I was enrolled and paid and legitimate to be there, and Sylvie answered that it would always be either her or the Monsieur (Mr. Olympus himself) there, and they would know me. So,I thanked the bodybuilder, and left.

Working out there has been interesting too. From being the only woman (and told on my first visit that I should follow the 'female workout' posted on the wall - I noticed there wasn't a 'male workout' posted anywhere), and from having to say hello to everyone I run across in the gym (one man even came around and shook EVERYONE's hands- talk about the spread of sweat and germs!), to using hand weights that are held together with splitting pieces of wood. All said, though, I really like this gym. Friendly guys, great location, decent equipment, and lots of motivational posters- Sylvie and the Monsieur never looked better!

Back in Carcassonne

November 13, 2006
Archive


I'm settling back into my French life. November is going to be a pretty relaxing and nice month I think. Yes, I am trying to do
nanowrimo again this year, but just for fun. The weather is turning colder, although today was really very warm, with a gentle breeze that had everyone smiling.

This month, my students are doing internships at local elementary schools, and taking over as teachers for three weeks. In turn, the regular teachers are coming back to the IUFM to do continuing education, which I am teaching. So this month, I am doing language perfection workshops with teachers, at three hours each session! It's a lot of preparation (three hours is a huge amount of time to fill for each class), but I think it will be fun and interesting. Other than that, November is going to be a month of parties, with everyone settling into the winter season and inviting each other round. This week already I've attended two dinner parties, with invitations to three more over the weekend.

So, what have I been up to? Monday and Tuesday I taught and did lesson plans for the continuing education classes. On Wednesday, I joined the gym (that's a whole nother story!), and then met a very interesting woman, Linda, at my friend Anne's shop. This lead to an invitation to an art opening on Thursday and a dinner party on Saturday. After that, I had a dinner party with three German friends, and then Jana and I went to see a very interesting movie called L'Arche Russe (Russian Ark). The local cinema club (which is literally next door to my apartment) is sponsoring a film series this month which is all movies about art. So we went to the movie, and then there was a discussion afterwards about it, which was intriguing because of everyone's interpretation of the film, none of which matched my own.

On Thursday, I went to the gym (again...a great story...to be written soon!), and then the cyber cafe, and then met Emily for coffee at Place Carnot, and there ran into a few other kids we know, including one girl who I randomly met on the train about three weeks ago. Then Jana showed up too. It was just so small town! I met Linda to go to the art opening, but she ran me down to the movie theater, saying that plans had changed, and we were going to see the Woody Allen film instead and then have dinner at the creperie. Whatever, I didn't have an agenda anyway. So we saw the movie, and then went to dinner. Now, the funny thing about the creperie is that it's been a joke between Michaela and I for about a month. We passed it one day, and we were both so excited that there was a creperie in town. But then, we could never find it again. So we started wondering if we had both just imagined it? It's become this joke, like anytime we're not sure about something, we reference the disappearing creperie. But it is actually there, and it's delicious, and it's the first time I've eaten out in Carcassonne, which is crazy! I think about how often I eat out in Portland, and I can't believe I haven't been out yet here. After a huge and long dinner with Linda, who is an ex-American and now British citizen with an apartment in Carca who is a freelance journalist and an expert lecturer on Robert Frost, I walked up to the pub to see who was there, and of course, everyone was there. After an ample dose of the usual crowd, I came back home and worked on my writing.

On Friday, I slept in way too late, wrote and wrote and wrote (my story is becoming a little out of control...), and then I went to sit in the sun (t-shirt weather!) at Chez Felix, one of the Place Carnot cafes, with a book. As I was getting into it, Linda showed up, talked to me for about an hour, had me read her play, and then asked me to come to her apartment to pick up a load of books she had picked out for me. So, I dutifully abided. She also wanted me to meet her hairdresser, Alain, whom she calls, “my sexy French hairdresser.” It's true that for an older gay French man, Alain is pretty charming, but he told me that my hair was too thin and needed “fortification”. It was very thin, he reemphasized, especially at my age. He told me to come back, and we would do a special treatment. Hmmmm, not so sure about all that.

After retrieving a huge bag of books from Linda, I went to the gym (much calmer this time around), and then ran home to shower and get ready for the dinner party Michaela accidentally got stuck throwing. She had originally invited five girls, and by the time we got into the food and wine, there were 15 in the apartment. It was a great party though, with delicious food, lots of languages being thrown around, and an ample amount of champagne. Then I walked my friend Sarah home and had tea with her and her insane kitten, came back home and started working on the load of borrowed books.

Saturday, I went to the market, had coffee with Michaela and Katie, went to the bazaar market, and then home to put away groceries, write, and take a shower. I got a call from Jay inviting me to Montsegur, a cathar castle that I have been REALLY wanting to visit (I even read a book about it!), but unfortunately the times wouldn't work out because I had to back in town for a dinner party at 6, and he wanted to stay longer than that and do a hike. That was disappointing, especially since I haven't seen Jay in weeks, and he's moving to Toulouse at the end of the month. Oh, well, I'll see him soon, and I can go to the castle another time. Then I hung out and wrote and then I had a dinner party at my friend Anne's house, with my new friend Linda and a young couple who have an 18 month old baby, Ella. We ate SO much and drank lots of good red wine, and it was a merry party all around.

On Sunday, I did absolutely nothing except read, write, go for a walk, and eat dinner with Jana. Then I wrote some more and read and went to sleep. That brings us to today! See, my life isn't always glamorous trips to Spain. Most of it is just hanging out, going to the gym, and seeing friends. Like Portland. But without the rain.

Spain!!!!

November 8, 2006
Archive


Journal- Spain

My itinerary:
Wednesday, October 25- Friday, October 27: Barcelona
Friday, October 27: bus to Granada (13 ½ hours!)
Monday, October 30: bus to Madrid
Friday, November 3: bus to Barcelona
Saturday, November 4: train to Carcassonne

So, ten days in Spain. It was wonderful! Two days with Michaela at the beginning in Barcelona, three days in Granada with Kate Friendly-Jones, Elyse Tishkoff, and Elyse's college friend Scott, four days in Madrid staying with Elyse and her boyfriend Antonio, and then one more day in Barcelona with Michaela. It was an amazing experience, being in three great Spanish cities, eating SO much good food, speaking some Spanish (and understanding a lot of it!), catching up with old friends and making new ones. I felt really happy and excited in Spain. I have to admit two things though: one, I did start to get homesick on this trip. I think it was being around childhood friends and talking about families, friends, Ashland, relationships, etc. Two, I was happy and relieved to be back in France where I could understand and be understood by everyone and everything. I got the basics down about survival in Spain: asking for coffee, beer, and tostadas, explaining myself (name, occupation, etc.), finding out information (where is the bus? How long is the ride? 13 ½ hours, are you freakin serious?!?!).
In Barcelona, we went all over the city: Las Ramblas, the Sagrada Familia, the Port Vell, The Park Guell, Montjuic, The Park Joan Miro, etc. There is so much going on all the time in Barcelona. Huge boulevards packed with shoppers, performers, tourists, pickpockets, kids, old people. Small winding streets with nothing but bars and restaurants. The city is huge, but with a metro pass and good shoes, you can see a lot in just a little time. The hostel was sterile, but functional. The first two nights we had a dorm with 7 guys, Mexican, French, Canadian, American, and that was interesting. One of the Mexican guys was saying that everywhere he went in Europe he had been stopped by police because of his look and skin color. This was the same guy that was trying to buy drugs on the street a few blocks from the hostel. I wonder if he thought there was a connection between his police contact and his touristic activities?
Granada might be the town I preferred of the three I saw. It is small, but lively. Beautiful, with a scenic placement right in front of the Sierra Nevada that is hard to beat, but it's a real place, kind of funky, with a great energy. The hostel I stayed at was cool too, with a roof-top terrace with a 360 view of the town. The staff were all foreigners, who didn't speak Spanish, but did speak French. The land around this area is so interesting. There are caves in the hills that are used as homes, bars, and flamenco clubs. Because I was there with Elyse, who had lived in Granada for a year, I got to see a lot of local things. Favorite restaurants, shops, viewpoints, etc. We went to a Flamenco show that featured the guitar...it was wonderful. The coolest part of the show was that it was in a theater, and behind the stage was a huge window looking out over the Alhambra all lit up at night. So the background to the dancers and musicians was the glowing Alhambra. It was so magical. On Sunday, Kate and I toured the Alhambra. I had no idea it would be so beautiful and so impressive, and so symbolically rich.
On Monday morning, Elyse, Scott, and I took the bus to Madrid. When we got to Elyse's house, Antonio, her boyfriend, had cooked lunch. Then Elyse and Antonio had to go to work, so Scott and I just hung out at the house and talked and worked on his bike. Scott is doing the Camino de Santiago on a mountain bike. He bought this bike at a pawn shop, and it needs a lot of work. So we talked bikes and changed nearly everything on the bike, and practiced Spanish and just hung out. It felt like I was at home, helping a boy with his bike... The next day, I went into town and met the other Scott, who is an assistant in a small town in France, but is from Portland. We walked around and got lost and just enjoyed the city. Madrid is an incredible city for walking. The architecture is like nothing I've ever seen. It's most definitely European, but so different from the buildings in France or Italy or Germany. The scale and attention to detail is unreal, and I was just in awe of the fantastic creativity and classicism that the buildings, the streets, the people displayed. There is so much style and design in Spain. Furniture and clothes and the use of line and color. I was in design heaven! Scott and I met the other Scott at the Prado and spent a couple of hours there, which was a good introduction and allowed us to see everything quickly, but that museum definitely warrants several more visits. There were pieces there that I have wanted to see my whole life, and it made me wish I had re-read all of my art history notes before this trip. The most spectacular was the Bosch “Garden of Delights”. This is a painting that has fascinated me (and everyone else) for so long, and it was incredible to stand before it and take a good long look at all the detailed insanity. I loved it!
After the Prado, we went back home and cooked dinner for Elyse and Antonio. The next day, we went into town and walked around, ate lunch, and went to the Retiro, which is the huge park in Madrid. It's lovely, and everyone was out taking a stroll. There are a few things that one must do in Madrid- the museums, a few touristic places, etc., but really the thing to do in this city is just to walk and look at the people and the life there. I really enjoyed Madrid. On Thursday I went to the Reina Sofia, which is the contemporary art museum. It was full of Picasso (including Guernica), Dali, Miro, etc. and was a delightful museum experience, but again, one that must be repeated. I met up with Elyse afterwards and went for tapas and some girl time. It was so fabulously wonderful to catch up with her and spend the week together. She's such a great girl, and we have so much in common. She's one of those friends who you can not see for years, and still have the same closeness and ease of connection that you always did.
On Friday, I took a bus (so many buses!) to Barcelona, met up with Michaela at the hostel, took another girl with us to the magic fountain show, which we missed, and ate dinner at an Indian restaurant, with the hugest mango lassi I've ever seen. Then we walked down the port, and when they went back to the hostel, I went for a little walk in the Barri Gotic. Saturday saw us just strolling around, going to the market, drinking Spanish hot chocolate (same taste, texture, and thickness as jello pudding), seeing a few more places, and then heading to the train station to go back to Carcassonne. We got in around midnight, and I slept until noon the next day.
That was my trip in Spain. It was sunny, warm, and beautiful. Full of friends, food, art, and energy! Remember to check out Flickr for pictures! Or just click on the photo to the right, and it will take you there.

A beachy weekend!

October 18, 2006
Archive


Ok, here we go. I believe last time I was going to the theater and making plans for the weekend. Well, I went to the theater, and then on Saturday, Michi and I went to Perpignan. It's a wonderful city further South, with Catalan and Spanish influences. We did all the tourist things in the morning, including walking around a fortress/palace full of old chapels and state rooms, and an amazing 360 degree view from the roof top. Then, we had a picnic, and took the bus to the beach. Great sand, bright blue water and bright blue sky, and warm enough to put on sunscreen and lay in the sun. We sunbathed and read, and then bought some churros and headed back to town to catch the train.
On Sunday, Michi and Jana and I went for a hike in the country. Jana has a car (hooray!), which means that we got to actually get into the real country side. We drove out of town into the Corberes, and parked at a tiny village (population 53) called Termes. We started our hike there, which took us for about four hours through peaceful creekside paths, incredibly steep rocky climbs, high plateaus filled with thyme and goat shit, past beautiful vineyards with leaves turning orange and red, and through chestnuts groves where we gathered chestnuts. The hike ended at the Cathar chateau. We explored the ruins, and then drove to a slightly larger town to have a coffee, and then back home. When we got home, Jana started cooking a soup for dinner, and I went to meet the Spanish language assistant, who JUST arrived that night (Sunday). She is from Cuba (which is why it's taken her so long to arrive...she couldn't get her visa, etc.), and she doesn't speak a word of French. She understands hello and goodbye, but that's about it. It's amazing to hear her talk about Cuba. She said that France to her is not just another world, it's another planet (which is good, because we need to replace Pluto...). I feel sorry for her, she is so scared and lost here, and is a very shy girl anyway, so she's not really open to the new language and experience. And living in Cuba, she's never been anywhere or seen anything. Like fresh milk in the grocery store was incredible to her. I can't even imagine how isolated that life must be, and how unbelievable it would be to leave for the first time, and come to France which oozes excess and freedom. So Sunday evening, Michi, Jana, Najmi, and my friend Julie all had delicious butternut squash, chestnut and potato soup at my apartment.
On Monday, I bought bus tickets for my trip to Spain! Barcelona, Granada, and Madrid. I'm SO excited! I had five hours of teaching on Monday, and then I got to go to writing group! I love this group. I love that I get to get together twice a month with a few other writers and discuss characters and plot and writing strategies. It's so comforting and inspiring, and really makes me feel balanced and healthy. This time, Jana came along with me, and that was really fun!
Tuesday was more teaching, all day, and then a goodbye dinner for my friend Marcus who is going back to Germany, and then a party at the IUFM (the school where I teach) with plenty of music to dance to and strong punch to drink. I hung out with my students/friends and that was really fun!
Today is work in the morning, errands in the afternoon (going to join the gym!!!! :) ), and then who knows?
My flickr name is becincarca, so look me up, check out my pictures, and add me to your contacts!

I hope you're all doing well! Talk to you soon!