Germany- Big Portland?

The question I pose tonight is not just the idle rambling of a homesick traveler...non! It the fact that the things I hold most dear and delightful about Portland (bikes, beer, and a weird yet comforting atmosphere) are to be found in every corner, street, and square of both Leipzig and Berlin. If not for the different language, I would feel very much at home here.

Leaving Carcassonne was difficult, but I made it through with a week of parties, meals, and fun. I had a party on Thursday night at the pub (after a dinner party for friends where I cooked a Thai curry that was too spicy for their delicate French palates!), and then spent the weekend with friends before leaving from Narbonne on Saturday night. I took the night train to Strasbourg (I tried to sleep, but didn't much succeed), and once I got there, caught a train to Kehl, Germany, where I bought my Good Weekend ticket. This ticket (only on Saturdays on Sundays) allows travel on regional trains all through Germany for 33 euros. I had to get from Southern Germany to just south of Berlin, in one day, on only regional trains. 12 hours passed (with 11 different train changes!), and I was finally in the loving arms of my friend Jana.

I spent a couple of days with her and her family, and we saw the region, many small perfect villages, and went to the sauna. Then we went with Jana's boyfriend Sascha to Halle, where they live. We spent a few relaxing days in Halle, Weimar, and Leipzig, and then on Friday, Jana and I got a rideshare to Berlin, where we spent the weekend together! Berlin is one of the coolest cities ever (so I say that for almost every city I visit, but it really is AMAZING!!), and I've been having so much fun just hanging out here, walking every where and being amongst so much modern history! Jana left on Sunday evening, we were in Potsdam, so I've spent the last day or two just rambling around on my own, meeting people and seeing things.

Tomorrow I leave to go to London to stay with Andrew and Alexis (my old roommates and very good friends!). I am very excited to see them, and to visit London and the UK!

I hope you're all doing well! Stay in touch!

The Annual Great Easter Battle

One sunny Spring afternoon, my mom got home from her life drawing class with a big smile on her face. I assumed that she had drawn Ginger again (one of her favorite models), or maybe Drew with the massive shoulders and matching parts. But no, my mom had a better reason for smiling- she had an idea.

“Rebecca! We gotta go to the store!” She said to me. “We need Peeps! And toothpicks!”

“I hate Peeps!” I said back. My brother is a big fan of the sickly sweet marshmallow chicks (of most chicks, really!), and in college I lived with a girl who loves stale Peeps, but for me they had always been the worst part of Easter.

“I know, but we're not gonna eat them!” My mom responded. “We're gonna fight them!”

“What?” I said, laughing.

“Yeah, see, you get the peeps, and then you put toothpicks in their hands and put them in the microwave, and they fight each other!” My mom was ecstatic, her green eyes wide.

“Mom,” I tried to explain, “they're marshmallows. If you put them in the microwave, they'll just expand and melt all over the place.”

“No, they'll get bigger and move around and fight each other!” She was so excited, imagining the little creatures coming to life and wreaking havoc on each other. “Let's go to the store!”

We drove to Bi-Mart, and roamed the candy aisle. My mom couldn't decide. Should we get two colors of chicks and fight them, or should we get a team of chicks and another of bunnies, and really let the games begin? We settled on Chicks and Bunnies (yellow and pink), and a big box of toothpicks (to arm the soldiers), and then drove excitedly home to pop them in the microwave and watch the sugershed!

My mom was meticulous with the weaponry. Each little fighter got a toothpick, and some (call them the first line of defense) got two! She picked out a hardy-looking Chick and a Bunny with something to prove, and set them up, mono el mono, on a paper plate, which she then placed in the microwave and shut the door.

“How long should we leave them in for?” My mom asked me.

“Until there is a clear victor!” I answered. Or until the microwave is covered in pink and yellow goo.

Turning the dial on the microwave, my mom was as excited as a Roman spectator. The plate rotated slowly around, giving us a full view of the battle, and we were captivated by the intensity of combat. The Bunny welded his sword with the might of a, well, bunny, and the Chick began to grow to an intimidating size, his little weapon getting lost in a liquefying mass of sugary terror.

Three minutes later, when I was wiping marshmallow off the sides of the microwave and my mom was despondently removing toothpicks from other Peeps, I began to appreciate the role of these gooey snacks in my Easter basket. They weren't so bad, just as long as you didn't ingest them.

Every Easter, I get a package in the mail covered with drawings of Chicks and Bunnies, armed to the beak, and ready for war! Inside, I find my very own set of spongy soldiers, and a little note proclaiming, “The Great Easter Battle!”. Peeps have now become my favorite thing about Easter.

HAPPY EASTER!!!!

February 24- March 13

The highlights were: Tuesday night at the pub with Nico, Friday night getting philosophical with Gary, Saturday at the cafe with the old men, Sunday at the chateau with the girls, Tuesday lunch with Emily, Wednesday hot chocolate writing letters with myself, Friday playing in Carcassonne with Elyse, Saturday with Elyse in Toulouse, Saturday night Jerome's birthday party at La Makhila, Sunday night dinner with the girls, and Monday night Susan's birthday party at the pub.

Tuesday night I went out with the assistants, but I ended spending the whole evening drinking and playing darts with Jerome, Nico, Bob, and Benjamin. We had a great night!

Friday night, I entered into a ridiculously profound philosophical conversation with my friend Gary. It made me happy, and feel like I haven't lost my edge!

Saturday, I did my usual routine of the market, and then met David, David, Pierre, Bob, and Daniel at La Saillon for a huge plate of meat (including chicken hearts!) and plenty of wine. We continued with coffee, and I found myself with David and David, just talking until 6 in the evening.

Sunday, we went to free castle day up in La Cite, followed by lunch at a restaurant, and later that evening a German movie at the cinema.

Tuesday afternoon after “work”, I met Emily at one of my favorite little lunch places. I've only been there twice, cause I don't eat out often in Carca (WAY too expensive!), but I really like it. It's owned by a French-Lebanese woman, and it's this tiny little hole in the wall covered with art work. Apparently, it's an artists collective, although I'm not exactly sure how that works. In any case, she makes one set dish every day, with Moroccan mint tea, and you come in and she just serves you what she has. The meals are always very fresh, healthy, and balanced. Tuesday for example was chicken with herbs, green beans, warm vegetable salsa, spiced carrots, green salad, bread, and tea. It's just a fun place to go, cause it's almost like a boarding hall- you go in and eat, totally relaxed and no fuss! I like places like that.

Wednesday afternoon I went to La Terrade for the best hot chocolate and a great view of Place Carnot to write letters and read.

On Thursday my very good friend Elyse Tishkoff came to town! We went out Thursday night for a drink with Jerome, Nico, Bob, and David. Then on Friday, we did Carcassonne! We had croissants and coffee in Place Carnot, went up to La Cite and walked around, had lunch at Intheieure 13, walked along the Canal du Midi, met girls for afternoon tea, had a picnic dinner of cheese and bread, then went out to the pub with a bunch of people for drinks. I think we managed to get almost everything in in one day!

On Saturday, we went to the market (of course) and had coffee. Then we took the train to Toulouse, where it was beautiful and everyone was out! I had decided definitively a couple weeks ago that I will be returning to the US and staying there next year, but being in Toulouse with all the young people and the sun out and everyone happy made me really want to stay here! I am so torn!

Saturday night was Jerome's birthday party at La Makhila, this funny Basque bar. So I went to that with Celia, Sarah, Charlotte, and Malick. We danced and sang (and I lost my voice!), and had a merry time!

Sunday evening we all had dinner together (Charlotte, Cristelle, Celia, Julie, Katie, Elena, Emily).

Finally, Monday evening we celebrated Susan's birthday at the pub with wine and about six different cakes! The whole crew was there, basically the core of the friends I've made here. It was really nice to hang out with everyone and just enjoy each other's company!

All right, that about catches us up! I know it sounds like I don't do anything here but go out and play with friends, and that's about right. I haven't been working lately because my students are on a two week internship. I have been doing lots of writing, however, and trip planning!

Hope you are all well! Bisous!

Amalfi on my mind

The rugged coastline presses in and out of the ocean like an amorous wave. Shell-colored buildings are scattered here and there. Cliffs and rock faces form natural castles and roads give the hills terrace-like structure. There are groves of lemon trees and green things climbing vertically up from the sea, sheltered from the wind with gauze and tarpaulin, exposed to the warm salty air.

Amalfi itself is a charming town with a beautiful brightly painted duomo rising above the town square. I pause here, a few moments on a port, looking around, breathing. Then I wander about the tiny town, losing myself in its streets.

People smile saying hello, and I wonder if being surrounded with beauty makes people more peaceful and kind? There are stairs that lead in all directions, up the mountain sides, and tunnels that connect one shop to another. Roof-top terraces and glass enclosed living rooms hang out over the water.

The whole scene looks organic, like the houses and churches formed at the same time as the jagged cliffs, taking on the colors of the sky and the sea. It is peaceful. I smile.